The Cavalry Stetson Hat

Nearly every Cav trooper remembers the scene in "Apocalypse Now" when Robert Duvall prepared for his assault in his Stetson.
The fearless American badass. Cav, Hooah.

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In 1865, with $100 in his pocket, John B. Stetson rented a small room, bought the tools he needed and $10 worth of fur; and the John B. Stetson Hat Company was born. more

The most distinctive uniform item worn by air cavalrymen in Vietnam was the Cav hat. This tradition is believed to have been originated in early 1964 by LTC John B. Stockton (Commander of 3/17 Cavalry) at Fort Benning , Georgia . The hat was adopted in an effort to increase esprit de corps in the new air cavalry squadron and was meant to emulate the look of the 1876 pattern campaign hat worn by cavalry troopers long ago. Once units deployed to Vietnam , the custom slowly spread to other air cavalry units, and by the cessation of hostilities, virtually all air cav (and some ground cav) units had adopted the Cav hat.

The Cav Hat was a private purchase item that cost a wallet-stretching $29 in 1972. It was most often supplied by the Stetson Hat Company. Because Stetson supplied most of the hats, the name "Stetson" became interchangeable with Cav hat. Several Asian suppliers provided "knock off" copies, but the quality of workmanship was greatly inferior to that of the Stetson.

While unit commanders did not mandate the wearing of the hats, there was considerable peer pressure to conform, and most troopers quickly added the Cav hat to their wardrobes. Just as World War 11 paratroopers were fond of their jump suits, wearing them long after issue had ceased, so too did the Cav hat instill fierce pride and loyalty in the units where it was worn. Most air cavalry veterans interviewed by the author proudly cherish their Cav hats today.

Because the hats were delivered from the manufacturer in the U.S. there was an understandably long turnaround time between ordering and delivery. In some units, members were killed in action or MEDEVACed to the United States before the arrival of their hats. Thus, current unit members sometimes accepted hats meant for departed comrades.

Stetsons were constructed of a high grade fur felt with an interior leather sweatband and a silk hat ribbon around the base of the crown. The manufacturer provided a black leather chin strap, which also held the hat cord in place. The type of hat cord worn varied according to rank, as follows: general officers, all gold braid; officers, gold and black intertwined braid; warrant officers, silver and black intertwined braid; enlisted men, yellow wool or nylon.

The cord was a copy of the acorn-ended 1899 pattern, worn on the 1885 pattern campaign hat. Members of B-2/17 Cav further garnished their Cav hats with the addition of a beaded "Indian" hat band and feather, D-3/5 Cav appears to be the only unit that wore gray Cav hats. When D-3/5 Cav exchanged designations with C-3/17 Cav in 1971, C-3/17 carried on the Light Horse tradition of gray Cav hats.

On the Cav hat, most officers and warrant officers wore some combination of officer rank insignia and crossed cavalry sabers. There were instances in which several troops of different squadrons wore the distinctive red and white background trimming-commonly referred to as a jump wing oval-on the front of the cav hat. This oval was authorized for 1/17 Cav, a non-air cavalry squadron of the 82nd Airborne Division, located at Fort Bragg , North Carolina .

The Cav hat was remarkably durable and was easily cleaned of dirt and lint by buffing with a shoe brush. In several units, a "wetting down" ceremony was conducted, during which the newbies were accepted as members of the troop. Before they could wear their hats, however, they were required to "chug-a-lug" a hatful of cold beer. There are several instances in which air cavalrymen, after being shot down, raced back into their burning aircraft to save their precious Cav hats.

©Winged Sabers

Photos courtesy of 2-17 Cavalry and VHPA

The tradition of "Breaking in a Stetson" has many various forms - most consist of pouring some form (or forms) of alcohol in it and having the new wearer drink from it. This is actually an old tradition which began when riders, upon reaching a steep river bank, would dismount and fill their hats with water for their horses to drink!

The history of the STETSON itself from the Stetson website!

("Etiquette," Emily Post, Funk & Wagnall's Company, 1922 and 1927)

Some of these tips are a bit outdated, but there is great history here for the "formal" Stetson wearer.
Here are some guidelines from the mistress of etiquette, Emily Post.

WHEN A GENTLEMAN
TAKES OFF HIS HAT

A gentleman takes off his Hat and holds it in his hand when a lady enters the elevator in which he is a passenger, but he puts it back on again in the corridor. A public corridor is like the street, but an elevator is suggestive of a room, and a gentleman does not keep his Hat on in the presence of ladies in a house.

This is the rule in elevators in hotels, clubs and apartments. In office buildings and stores the elevator is considered as public a place as the corridor. What is more, the elevators in such business structures are usually so crowded that the only room for a man's Hat is on his head.

When a gentleman stops to speak to a lady of his acquaintance in the street, he takes his Hat off with his left hand, leaving his right free to shake hands, or he takes it off with his right and transfers it to his left. If he has a stick, he puts his stick in his left hand, and gives her his right. If they walk ahead together, he puts his Hat on; but while he is standing in the street talking to her, he should remain Hatless. There is no rudeness greater than for him to stand talking to a lady with his Hat on, and a cigar or cigarette in his mouth.

WHEN A GENTLEMAN LIFTS HIS HAT

Lifting the Hat is a conventional gesture of politeness shown to strangers only, not to be confused with bowing, which is a gesture used to acquaintances and friends. In lifting his Hat, a gentleman merely lifts it slightly off his forehead and replaces it; he does not smile or bow, nor does he even look at the object of his courtesy. No gentleman ever subjects a lady to his scrutiny or his apparent observation.

If a lady drops her glove, a gentleman should pick it up, hurry ahead of her — on no account nudge her — offer the glove to her and say: “I think you dropped this!.” The lady replies: “Thank you.” The gentleman should then lift his Hat and turn away.

If he passes a lady in a narrow space, so that he blocks her way or in any manner obtrudes upon her, he lifts his Hat as he passes.

If he is on a street car which is very crowded, when he wishes to leave it and a lady is directly in his way, he asks: “May I get through, please?” As she makes room for him to pass, he lifts his Hat and says: “Thank you!”

If he is in the company of a lady anywhere in public, he lifts his Hat to a man who offers her a seat, or who picks up something she has dropped or shows her any other civility.

He lifts his Hat if he asks a woman or an old gentleman a question, and always, if, when walking on the street with either a lady or another man, his companion bows to another person.

In other words, a gentleman lifts his Hat whenever he says “Excuse me, Thank you,” or speaks to or is spoken to by a lady, or by an older gentleman. And no gentleman ever keeps a pipe, cigar or cigarette in his mouth when he lifts his Hat, takes it off, or bows.

THE INFORMAL BOW

In bowing on the street, a gentleman should never takes his Hat off with a flourish, nor should he sweep it down to his knee; nor is it graceful to bow by pulling the Hat over the face as though examining the lining. The correct bow, when wearing a high Hat, or derby, is to lift it by holding the brim directly in front, take it off merely high enough to escape the head easily, bring it a few inches forward, the back somewhat up, the front down, and put in on again. To a very old lady or gentleman, to show adequate respect, a sweeping bow is sometimes made by a somewhat exaggerated circular motion downward to perhaps the level of the waist, so that the Hat's position is upside down. If a man is wearing a soft Hat he takes it by the crown instead of the brim, lifts it slightly off his head and puts in on again.

AT THE OPERA, THE THEATER AND OTHER PUBLIC GATHERINGS

In walking about in the foyer of the opera house, a gentleman leaves his coat in the box — or in his orchestra chair — but he always wears his high Hat. The “collapsible” Hat is for use in the seats rather than in the boxes, but it can be worn perfectly well by a guest in the latter if he hasn’t a “silk” one.

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The broad-brimmed hat [worn here by George Custer] was very popular with troops in the western theater.
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These are some different types of cavalry hats offered by Stetson and Miller Hats.

Stetson Hats & the John B. Stetson Company;
1865-1970

This book provides a sweeping survey of the hats produced by the company whose name is synonymous with cowboys and the Wild West. Surprisingly, though, the John B. Stetson Company was based in Philadelphia and produced all manner of headwear. Over 500 illustrations display never-before-worn Stetson hats (men's and women's alike), hat boxes, miniature boxes, and a surprisingly large number of collectible items associated with this most famous hat company. Original research charts the development of of the company, and individuals closely related with the firm provide their memories. Hat styles from the mid-nineteenth century to the late twentieth get a review, and for those lucky enough to own one of these valuable collectibles, there are tips on how to wear and care for vintage and modern Stetsons. Values for the hats illustrated, an extensive bibliography, and an index are included.

About the Author
Jeffrey B. Snyder has enjoyed western hats since childhood. He is a writer and editor living in Downingtown, Pennsylvania with his wife Sherry and their two children, Michael and Madeline.

The U.S. Cavalry Store in Clarksville, TN outside Fort Campbell now sells Stetsons for $149.00.